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Sunday, February 10, 2013

Nerf Rebelle

From MyLastDart by way of SGNerf

Pretty Much a Direct Quote from SGNerf's page. My thoughts below. MyLastDart had a chance to catch a glimpse at the upcoming new range of Nerf Rebelle products designed specifically for the female demographics. This is a very interesting and positive development in the Nerf series that will expand the appeal of Nerf to a much wider market.

Photos from MyLastDart blog:






For more information and updates, check out MyLastDart

Ok, now for my thoughts. I can see where they're coming from on this, and i'm not sure whether or not i agree. Not because i'm sexist, quite the opposite. INMHO, or maybe not so humble, I thin any girls, or women for that matter, who were/are going to be drawn to NERF as a hobby won't be put off by the relatively gender neutrality of the current styling. I don't think these are going to be the hotcakes they are hoping they will. And I say that because in my family, hunting is a way of life, and the women hunt just as avidly as the men, and they DON"T get Pink furniture for their guns. The younger set are the same way. Just my opinion.

On the OTHER hand, however, i can still see a place for these. Check out the organic, flowing design they have. Look past the paint job. don't they look like "elven" or "alien" weapons? Possibly "bio-tech"? 

Oh, on a side note, the 6 shot pistol that comes with the eye wear also comes with a holster... How come they get a holster and we don't?

Watch This Space!!!

Or rather, this blog. I've roughed out in my head an add on circuit for the 'Pede that will accomplish a variety of things.

First, it'll act as an Empty Mag Cut Out. Basically  after you fire your last dart, no more shootie. no dry fires, Neh? Optionally, it'll light an LED to inform you, but i prefer my way.

Second, it'll allow single and burst fire, with an adjustable burst rate.

Third, I've figured out a sensor that will tell it what kind of mag you put in, whether 6, 12, 18, or 35. it will require modifying the mags, but that part of the mod's simple.

Fourth, It'll run a count down round counter to track where your ammo status is for the loaded mag.

Now, if you interlink the second and third points, you can also "program" the thing with different burst fire settings for different mag sizes. say, 2 rnd burst for 6, 3 for 12's and 18s, and say, 5s for the 35. OR you can just set everything to 3. It'll be controlled by an arduino nano, and i think i'll see about hard mounting a USB jumper to the case somewhere so you can change things without opening the thing up.

Other than that, i've finally managed to source my springs and such, i know where to get the batteries and the charger, now i just need to source a torque spec motor for the thing. and i wish the guys over at BattleGears would make more brass gears.  HEY GUYS! How about a set of 4 gears and the drive band off the plunger tube to boot? hell, i'd just about pay to have the CAST right now...

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

My Basic Loadout

I'll update this with pics later, But for now. My Go To loadout for, basically, ANY situation, is My Trusty CS-50 Stampede (currently stock, i'm waiting for the available money for upgrade springs and battery, and possibly gears and motor), and a Pair of Stryfes (still stock as well, debating on mods, but will be detailed below. On my "to be purchased" list are LARP thrown weapons and a good LARP Boffer sword. probably from Stronblade (i think thats the name of the company). they're better quality than NERF Melee weapons.

I'm currently designing a pair of tactical drop holsters for the stryfes that will allow one handed reholstering. Also on my upgrade list are a few of Limey Tactical's improved 4-in-hand mag pouches, some "toy" night vision goggles with a home made head rig (the ones that actually are Active IR, not the cheaper ones with green lights, just FYI), IR laser for a sight to compensate for the lack of depth perception of the goggles, and an IR Iluminator (read "LED Flashlight with a LED swap") for night TACOPS. Also, some new apps for my phone when i get it upgraded, and a pebble smart watch.  i do have a plan :D. and i still need to pick up my suspension vest, Cami's, and webbing. Most of my tactical gear was stolen during my move several years ago, and, i hate to say, i probably wouldn't fit in it anymore.

I usually start with a 35 in the 'Pede and 6's in the Stryfe, then go to 18s on everything when empty.

Now, planned mods.
Stampede: Spring and power upgrade. CONSIDERING installing a high torque brushless motor and an arduino controller. The Arduino will also run some other firmware, basically giving me a round counter and an empty clip indicator (setable to either light an LED or simply cease firing, maybe play a pinfall clip out of a speaker) that's all still in the planning stages, though.
Stryfe: either a voltage upgrade followed by a possible motor swap, or simply do the Plasma Dash swap and an amperage upgrade. i'll need to find some higher limit switches, though.

I have a plan to experiment with LIFEPO batteries as voltage upgrades. not sure how that's going to turn out, but i can use em in other stuff, so, no loss.

anywho, that's how i get rigged.

Mousetrap Mines, a how-to

Ok, my first post is going to be a "How To" on Mouse Trap mines, Starting with the Popper style.  I will be Using Imperial measurements, because it's what i'm familiar with, feel free to adapt.

DISCLAIMER!!! USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! I am not responsible if someone gets hurt building or using these  Be Mature. Be Responsible  Be careful in your placement. And above all, remember, these things MAY sound like a weapon discharge. I HIGHLY recommend discussing the use of these with the law enforcement agency in charge wherever you are, both so they know what you have, what they sound like, and WHERE and WHEN you're using them.

Materials list:
  • Mouse trap: i recommend the type with the plastic "cheese flavored" trigger paddle. They're easier to work with. The paddle is larger so takes less to trip and it's easier to drill. it's also easier to set, which means less sore fingers. trust me on this...
  • Pin Vice: also known as a hand drill. sorry, no picture, but it's got bits smaller than an 8th of an inch and a chuck to hold em. you can probably make due with a rotary tool or drill with a really small bit.
  • Not this
  • Small nails or brads: this is a toughie, because the caps you use determines the size of nail you need.  so you'll have to shop around a bit.
  • Cap gun Caps: not the paper ones, the plastic type. they were originally a cheap primer for black powder pistols.
  • Scrap lumber: what ever you have laying around. it dosn't need to be thick or really strong. Cut slightly larger than the mouse trap.
  • Monofilament line: you don't really need much of it, but the damn stuff is so freaking useful.
  • Small saw: i used a coping saw.
  • Sharp Knife or small v chisel: I actually used an old x-acto knife.
  • not the "American West" type or
    the ones on the bottom right.
  • Optional: Lure fishing clips: should be available anywhere bait is sold, as well as wherever you buy your monofilament  Makes rigging these things faster and easier.
I'll do the basic build first, then some plans and ideas my friends and i came up with for this stuff.


A shopping tip. Pick up your caps before you get your nails. then take a few with you and try out different nail sizes. the ones we found were white ring shanked finishing nails. Basically, the cap should "snap" over the head of the nail and stay put when turned upside down or shaken a bit. This makes for a reliable mine.

First, an over view. what you're going to end up with is a mousetrap nailed (or screwed, but predrill your holes either way) to a larger piece of wood, with a piece of monofilament ishing line attached to the trigger, a nail as an anvil, a cap on the nail, and the bar of the mouse trap is the hammer. SO in the image below, the black line is the cut line. you ONLY cut the wood, just to be clear. the two blue (yes, they are blue) dots on the paddle are the drill holes, one of which should go all the way through the mouse trap. The red Spot is the location of the Nail/Anvil. try to get it as centered as possible. if it MUST be off center, shift it towards the Spring side of the trap (the bottom in this picture, where the spring arm goes over the trap bar)
First step, cut the Trap. again, see picture as reference. you should only need to remove a quarter to a half inch or so.  I had to do this because the wood the trap's made of is too thin to support a bent nail type Anvil. this is also the reason for the extra wood.

Drill the holes. Remember, one hole goes all the way through the trap.

Carve a channel from the Through hole to the edge of the trap, on the bottom of the trap. I recommend to the left in the picture above, but it's all about your planned orientation. This will allow free movement of the trip wire when the trap is mounted on the base. try to trim off any rough bits left over from drilling, and smooth the transition.

Thread the monofilament through the hole in the trap, then the one in the paddle, then through the second hole, then knot well. some monofilament's easier to knot then others, so use your best judgement. You could also use a touch of glue on the top side of the paddle to secure everything.

Secure the trap to your base plate. this should leave approximately 3/4 of an inch to a full inch of wood for you to drive your anvil in. make sure the monofilament is in place. you can double it back across the trap if necessary at this point.

Mark and predrill your anvil location. predrilling makes it easier to place. you only need a small starter hole. Once your anvil is placed, it should be proud of the level of the mouse trap by at least 1/8th inch. It's position under the bar can be fine tuned by bending with a pair of pliers. Also, a tip at this point. some cable ties of any kind can help hold the Trap Bar back while you're doing a lot of this. the velcro resuable cable tamer type works well.

now, i would strongly suggest using the optional clips i listed above. clip the monofilament off about 6 inches from your new mine and tie your clip on securely. I recommend making this fairly close to your trap, a couple inches from the edge at most.

Place cap, arm trap, attach a lead to your clip, pull lead. "BANG!" :)

Now, on to optionals and upgrades:

One of the reasons i suggested the clips and making them so close is so you can adjust the sensitivity of your trap. take a small screw eyelet and screw it in to the edge of your baseplate where the trip wire passes over the edge. Now, you can run a rubber band (or several) through that, clip into the tripwire clip, and reduce the sensitivity of your mine. For the record, ours were frequently set off by a stiff breeze. this will also let you rig heavier lines as trip wires. I would suggest using a loop of low test fishing line as a break away linkage, however, to protect your mine, and more importantly, your friend's nose. it aint a "trip" wire for nothing.

If your base plate is a couple inches wider than your mousetrap, you can drill some 1/4 to 3/8th inch holes in the corners to make it mountable. use bungie cords. or you can do pairs of holes and do same, OR zip tie a pair of spikes to the back of the mine to make it ground mountable.

You could do a land mine style trigger. it would just take a simple (probably L shaped) lever connected to the trip wire. when someone stepped on the trigger pad, it would depress the bottom of the l, pulling the trip wire and setting off the mine.

High Tech Option: you COULD use the mouse trip to either trip a switch, or AS a switch to complete a circuit setting off a simple noisemaker and strobe arangement.

Easy mod. you want it louder, use more anvils, just make sure they're all the same height.

There are also airsoft versions of this i may or may not cover later, however, they ARE covered in other how-to's.

"HAVE FUN STORMING THE CASTLE!!!"
 

Special Thanks

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